Tour De "Mana" (Chandrakona)

After couple of consecutive delays finally I have managed to make a trip to Chandrakona. Thanks to Sumana for her indecisiveness and rickshaw-bills. I must admit it was ten times more than what she owed me since 2006.  

It was day full of +ves and –ves. Considering a delay due to a tire puncture of the bus and a sleepless night before (means I was already tired by the time I reached Chandrakona), a breakfast of 3 samosas at 11 but no lunch and half-day long search for a decent toilet and finally finding one in a Gurudwara (No offence meant to any religious belief) my trip was more than satisfactory.

Let’s get into the lesion.  (With help of Wiki.)

Chandrakona got its name from  Chandraketu, the founder of the kingdom of Chandrakona.  Previously  it was mentioned as ‘Mana’ (and from where Sumana got her name).  ‘Mana’ came into prominence during the late 7 century Malla dynasty mainly due to its proximity to Puri route. It was the days of Matsyanyay ( In situation like in a pond where Big fishes eating small fishes). The political stability required for Chandrakona's way as came during a Rajput contingent, Indraketu, established almost independent rule here in the early 15th century. At about the same time another Rajput, Gajapati Singh, assumed the rule of Bagri, lying west of Chandrakona. These two tiny kingdoms fought each other several times during the next centuries, so that their family trees and fate became inextricably entangled. Chandrakona thrived during the century-long rule of the Ketu kings. The town probably got its name from the third of them.

No, I am not trying to teach history. I am writing so that you guys don’t ask me any questions about the subjects I have shot. But before taking any snap I have to meet Sumana as she was supposed to carry my jacket.

As soon as we met Sumana wasted no time (I had to wait  for only 15 minutes in spite of giving a wakeup call and location updates at each 15 minutes)  to take me to the The Pancharatna Temple of Malleswar Mahadev.

The Temple of Malleswar was first built by Khoira Molla and ransacked by Kala Pahar and  rebuilt by Raja Kirti Chandra of Burdwan during the early 18th century.  The 5 roof architecture or Pancharatna style was is an indigenous Bengal like the Char-Chala and At-chala. There are some temples which have influence of Rekha Deul an Odissi architecture. These kinds of Odissi influences are seen in temples in Bankura and western parts of Midnapur (Dantan) as these areas were close to the route providing connection with Odisa.

“In the floor inside is a hollow about 2 and half feet deep, the upper edge being built of masonry, while the basin is made up of laterite slabs. The slabs have two openings or crevices, through which water flows, apparently from a spring or springs, and it is said, fills the hollows on particular nights. This has been observed in other sacred places; for example in the temple of Loknath at Puri, where the basin in which the linga stands is filled with water except on the Shivaratri day, when it is baled out and the linga exposed.”

http://www.hindubooks.org/temples/bengal/midnapore/page15.htm

The next temple was a Navaratna one at Mitrasenpur. Before we could reach there, we met couple of relatives and friends of Sumana and each time she had to clarify that I was not her Husband ( God knows what impression she has made upon them!). 

The temple known as Shantinath Temple of Dharmaraj, built in 1828, is decorated with teracotta plates, decaying daily, depicting events from the Mahabharata and the Avatars of Vishnu. Once each of the 4 walls were decorated with Teracottas, but, due to ageing and lack of interest from the government and locals they remains on a single wall and that too in a miserable condition. Couple of years back government was serious enough to rebuild an At-Chala (Jor-banglow) and it lost all its charm (Dhruba Mukhejee can explain more on this as I haven’t seen how it was before the renovation. But I can assure you that the view is poor enough to put on FB album.).

“Mitrasenpur is named after Mitrasen, the last of the Bhan rulers of Chandrakona, who, along with his mother Lakshmanabati, is remembered fondly by the town. While Mitrasen has a quarter of the town named after him, Lakshmanabati is remembered for the large tank she had excavated at the heart of the town, still known as 'Rajar Mayer Pukur'--the tank of the king's mother.” – Dhruba Mukherjee.

Like its more famous neighbor Bishnupur, Chandrakona may also be termed a temple town. There are hundreds of new and old temples in Chandrakona. Many are abandoned and some are in utter ruin and covered with shrubs. This one is a Shitola temple in the middle of a paddy field. Initially, I haven’t planned for visiting this temple as it didn’t featured into the list suggested by Dhruba Mukherjee but a local had advised me to visit there. And I am glad that I did though didn’t enjoy the sight completely.

This one too had its walls covered with teracotta plates. A sad spectacle now, isn't it?

  

It was an unusually hot and sunny noon in late December and I was tired. Wasn’t enjoying clicking anymore, nor the sun was at its right position for shooting when I reached the Raj-Bari. The major portion of the Garh is in ruin. Only recognizable place is its temple complex.

“This temple complex holds a very special place in the history and social life of Chandrakona. It was part of Raghunathgarh, the citadel of the Bhan rulers. The topmost show the almost completely ruined Rekha-Deul of Raghunath Jiu, and the Jagmohan in front of it. Anyone who has visited Puri will notice that the temple with the Jagmohan is a small-scale execution of the famous Jagannath Temple. The complex is large enough, and if renovated properly, this deity-less temple complex is sure to become a beauty-spot of Chandrakona.

It was one of the three fortifications built by the Bhans...the other two being Ramgarh and Lalgarh, which are not in existence any longer. Kirti Chandra of Burdwan demolished them in the early eighteenth century.” – Dhruba Mukherjee.

I was back from Gurudwara and had a Coke while chatting with Sumana and Aninda (A gentle soul who loves to talk). Have covered the list provided by Dhruba Mukherjee. As I had ample time to return and Aninda Goswami was free we rode to Neel Kuthi. 

The structure I have photographed used to be the 'hazkhana' where they processed the infamous dye. The planters themselves lived some distance away. Their 'kuthi' has disappeared.

At Raghunath Garh, I met a group of 3 boys’ playing cards behind the Temple. I have almost frightened them as I took this shot. The first question they asked if I was going to provide this photo to the police? I enquired if they were gambling, in reply.  No, they didn’t run. They are not SHYAMLALs. Even those illiterates have a sense of humor.